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First Ascent
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“Retreat Was Out of the Question”
Quentin Roberts writes about one of the most badass first ascents in recent memory: His mind-bending—and Piolet-winning—trip up Jirishanca’s previously unclimbed Southeast Ridge, in 2022.
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Another 5.15b FA for Seb Bouin
Bouin had one of the greatest years of sport climbing on record last year, making the first ascent of DNA (5.15d), Nordic Marathon (5.15b/c), and Suprême Jumbo Love (5.15c), and repeating Change (5.15c), Jumbo Love (5.15b), and Iron Curtain (5.15a).
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How To Be Happy When Climbing Loses Its Joy
He had big goals. The trip was g
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Gear Myths: The Helmet Question—When Should You Wear a Helmet and Why?
Ah, the glory of belay duty with that post send glow. A mere 10 minutes ago, you styled a 5.10 finger crack, and now it’s your time to chill and watch your friend flail. You slide outta those Aspect Pros, pop off your helmet, and get comfy.
But wait … why’d you take your helmet off? Your partner is literally about to climb ABOVE your head!
Yet, this is common practice. Climbers wear their helmets while scaling rocks above someone, and then take it off to stand UNDER someone.
OK, maybe this isn’t you. Perhaps you’re a leave it on all the time kind of climber (we know you’re out there and we love you). But tell us, when was the last time you went bouldering? And are we right to guess that you didn’t wear a helmet? This despite the simple fact that you’re 100% guaranteed to take several ground falls per session—because EVERY fall is a ground fall when bouldering. But climbers hardly ever wear helmets d
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20 Classics in 20 Days Challenge Repeated 30 Years Later
The endeavor, first completed in 1993, totaled 224 pitches of technical rock, 63,000 feet of elevation gain, 140 miles of hiking, 2.5 hours of canoeing, and 3,361 miles of driving.
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